- A Christmas Tradition: Crown Roast of Pork
Christmas dinner menu planning is underway, and on my Acadiana table, there is no more dramatic presentation than a crown roast of pork in all its regal glory. This cut of meat always wows your guests for several reasons. Beyond the center-of-the-table showcase for the roast, the meat surrounding the bone is always juicy and flavorful. And the thickness of the chops always delivers moist pork.
A crown roast cut of pork is simply a pork loin with the bones left intact. Instead of cutting them into individual pork chops, the butcher slices just enough into the meat to curve the loin into a circle. With the hard work done and the meat prepped ahead, it’s quite easy to brine, marinate, season, and cook this spectacular pork roast.
Call ahead and order from a butcher that understands this cut. Ask for an 8 to 10-pound crown roast, trimmed into thick double-cut-size chops with the ends of the bones frenched–slicing the meat and skin from the top portion of each bone. The entire roast should be tightly tied at the center into a round “crown” shape. Some butchers in Cajun country will stuff the center with sausage for an extra charge, but I never go with that option.
I love the rustic simplicity (and flavor) of Cajun rice dressing. This “dirty” rice is chock full of seasonings and other tasty bits that make it one of the most popular side dishes in Cajun country. There are numerous commercial blends of dressing mix on the market that can be bought online, but I like to make my own, and you can get the recipe here. In this variation, I like adding the sweetness of apple with the flavor of zucchini that contrasts with the spiciness of the dressing mix.
To treat your family and friends like royalty, serve them this crown roast on your Acadiana table.
Crown Roast of Pork with Apple Zucchini Rice DressingPrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 6 to 8IngredientsApple Zucchini Rice Dressing- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 2 ribs celery, diced
- 1 cup diced green bell pepper
- 3 cups raw pork sausage
- 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 2 large zucchini squash, peeled and chopped
- 2 apples, cored and chopped
- 2 cups (16 ounces) store-bought rice dressing mix or homemade (get the recipe)
- 6 cups cooked long-grain white rice, such as Supreme
Roast Pork- 2 quarts (64-ounces) apple juice
- 1 cup salt
- 1 cup sugarcane molasses, such as Steen’s
- 1 (8.5-pound) crown roast of pork, tied with bones frenched
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 teaspoon white pepper
- 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 2 carrots
- 1 onion, peeled and quartered
- 2 sprigs rosemary
- 1 ½ cups (about 12) whole fresh cherries
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
InstructionsApple Zucchini Rice Dressing- In a large pot with a lid over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper, and sauté until the onion turns translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the sausage and cook until it begins to brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in the seasoning and 1 cup of chicken stock.
- Add the zucchini, apples, and dressing mix. Stir to incorporate and lower the heat to simmer. Let cook for 10 minutes and turn off the heat.
- Add the cooked rice. If needed, add additional stock to achieve a moist (not soupy) dressing texture. Cover and keep warm until serving.
Roast Pork- For the brine, in a large stock pot that will fit your crown roast, add the apple juice and salt. Bring to a boil and dissolve the salt. Add the molasses, stir to dissolve, and turn off the heat. Add cold water to double the volume of the juice and let cool.
- Add the crown roast to the mixture along with a few handfuls of ice to cool. Place in the refrigerator overnight.
- Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
- Remove the crown roast and dry with paper towels. With a sharp paring knife remove any extra fat and peel back any remaining skin or meat from the top 2 inches of each bone. (Note: If your roast is not tied already, surround the roast with kitchen twine and tie tightly to keep the meat in a circle.)
- For the marinade, melt the butter in a saucepan and add the garlic powder, onion powder, and white pepper. Once the seasonings have dissolved, turn off the heat.
- Using a meat injector, fill with the butter marinade and inject into the thickest part of the meat several times. Continue until all the marinade is used and the meat is fully injected. Lightly sprinkle the roast with the Cajun seasoning.
- In a large roasting pan fitted with a wire rack, add the chicken stock along with the carrots, onion, rosemary, and cherries. Place the roast on the rack and move into the middle rack of the oven uncovered. Reduce the temperature to 325ºF and cook for 1 hour.
- Check the roast to see that it is cooking evenly and that the top is not browning too quickly. If it is, place aluminum foil over the top of the roast and place back in the oven for 1 hour longer.
- After 2 hours, the roast should be nearing doneness, so take a temperature reading to check by placing the thermometer in the thickest part of the roast. The ideal internal temperature for moist roast pork is 145ºF, so cover the roast with aluminum foil and continue cooking until you reach that temperature. Once your roast is done, remove from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes.
- For the pan gravy and cherry sauce, remove the cooked cherries from the roasting pan and strain the juices into a saucepan.
- Mix the cornstarch with cold water and stir to make a slurry. Bring the juices to a boil and stir in the cornstarch slurry to thicken. Bring to a boil and cook until thickened to a gravy consistency, about 3 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
- Add the cherries to a cutting board and remove the seeds and stems. Rough chop the cherries and add to a small condiment bowl.
- For serving, add the roast to a platter and remove the string. Slice the chops into individual servings, but retain the shape of the roast. Serve the dressing on the side or optionally spoon some of the dressing into the center of the roast. Present the roast at the center of the table and serve with pan gravy and chopped cherries.
NotesThe size of the roast and the number of chops will determine how many servings you will get. Prep time does not include the time to brine. Call ahead and allow a couple of days for your butcher to prepare the crown roast. Important to note that the overall cooking time for the meat is dependent on the size of your roast and thickness of your chops. I like the rustic presentation, but some like the frilly little paper “hats” for the tops of the bones – it’s your call.3.5.3217
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- Pomegranate Spritzer
Just in time for the party season, I’m bringing back my favorite drink recipe. If ever there were a drink to define the holidays, it is this Pomegranate Spritzer: the colors of red and green, the fragrance of fruit and evergreen, and the taste of a sweet present under the tree. This Pomegranate Spritzer is gift wrapped and ready to serve to your guests. And the beauty of this one is that it works just as well with or without alcohol.
When the holidays roll around, there are a few select ingredients that just heighten the festive spirit around the Graham house. Sweet potatoes, pumpkin, and cranberries are on the list, but pomegranate is right at the top. Stacks of pomegranates fill the produce bins of all the markets around town, and we load up. We seem to find an infinite list of recipes to use the juice, pulp, and seeds of these little treasure chests of flavor, but this holiday drink has elevated the fruit to new heights.
The genius of this easy cocktail recipe for Pomegranate Spritzer is combining the pure juice blended with a shot of pomegranate liqueur along with vodka and topped with a spritz of sparkling Prosecco. Served over ice and garnished with pomegranate seeds, a slice of lime, and a sprig of fresh rosemary, your holidays will get off to a festive start.
Bring out this Pomegranate Spritzer at your next party and just listen to the rave reviews.
Pomegranate SpritzerPrep timeTotal timeFor a non-alcoholic version, simply pour more pomegranate juice and top it off with club soda. But please don't forget the festive garnish.Recipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 1Ingredients- 1 ounce freshly squeezed pomegranate juice or bottled pomegranate juice, such as POM
- 1 (1.5-ounce) jigger pomegranate liqueur
- 1 (1.5-ounce) jigger vodka
- Prosecco or sparkling wine
- Pomegranate seeds, for garnish
- Slice of lime, for garnish
- Sprig of rosemary, for garnish
Instructions- In a large glass filled with ice, add the pomegranate juice, and top with the liqueur and vodka. Stir the glass to combine. Pour enough sparkling wine to fill the glass. Stir again. Garnish with a few pomegranate seeds, a slice of lime, and a sprig of rosemary.
NotesThere are several brands of pomegranate liqueur on the market and I recently saw the PAMA brand pomegranate liqueur at my local Albertson's. Don't break the bank buying French Champagne; any good, moderately priced sparkling wine will work with these ingredients. I admit that using the POM store-bought juice is an easier path to this cocktail, but please bring fresh pomegranate seeds to the party. And the rosemary sprig is a must to add a Christmas tree tingle to the nose with every sip.3.4.3177
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.The post Pomegranate Spritzer appeared first on Acadiana Table.
- Braised Beef Shanks with Parsley Pecan Pesto
Let’s cut to the meat of this story–whole sectional cuts of beef are irresistible to me. They harken back to pioneer days and more rustic farm-style butchering techniques. But beef shanks are rarely seen whole in the supermarket. My guess is that retailers fear that timid customers will panic and run screaming from the meat counter at the site of such a gargantuan chunk of steer. But, if you really analyze it, the meat off of a whole shank portion of beef is no bigger than most pot roast cuts with one exception–the bone. With my Braised Beef Shanks recipe, I aim to reintroduce you to this tasty cut.
It is true that the protruding shank bone is a gasp-inducing and somewhat scary sight for most shoppers unaccustomed to a butcher’s back room. In addition, it goes without saying that most folks don’t want to pay the added price-per-pound cost of the bones. That’s why shanks are usually portioned into the more manageable 2-inch-thick, osso bucco-type cut. Not for me. I’ll take the leg of the beast every time.
Make friends with your local butcher, and he should be able to find this cut for your next Braised Beef Shanks recipe. Right here in South Louisiana, my go-to sources for any custom cuts are threefold: Took’s in Lafayette, LA, Kirk Martin Slaughter House based in Carencro,LA, and the legendary Eunice Superette. Over fifty years ago, Jerome Moore opened up the “Superette” as it is now known. In the retail shop on the main drag in Eunice, LA, your senses are overwhelmed with the flavors and aromas of a tamer sort–smoked sausage, fresh boudin, and an endless array of meats. It is a meat lover’s nirvana. Be sure to call your butcher ahead for a custom order like this for a quick in and out pick-up for the beef for your Braised Beef Shanks.
The point of roasting a whole shank is twofold: The bone imparts enormous flavor, and the slow braise breaks down the collagen inside. The shank is the weight-bearing leg portion of the cow that is all muscle and very little fat. An 8-hour cooking time in flavorful braising liquids reduces the connective tissue into sticky, sweet meat that is almost impossible from leaner, quickly grilled cuts, and the luscious marrow is a hidden treat inside the bones.
For my Braised Beef Shanks recipe, I braise my shanks in two stages. The day before, I slow cook them in beer and refrigerate them in the braising liquid overnight. The day I plan to serve my Braised Beef Shanks, I put them on in the morning and add a bottle of red wine to the liquid along with chicken broth. Low and slow is the only way to reduce the sinewy tissue clinging to the bone. After a few hours, the meat is fork-tender and gelatinous–literally falling off the bone. And the long shank is exposed for a most dramatic presentation. Adding a bit of Port wine to the reduced liquid creates a sauce that is rich and beefy.
Taking a cue from the gaucho culture of Argentina, I like to serve these magnificent Braised Beef Shanks with a chimichurri-like pesto sauce. Instead of typical basil pesto, I use parsley as my dominant herb along with rosemary and garlic. Pecans add a bit of crunch and a grated Mexican cotija is a salty replacement for the typical Parmesan. With just the right balance of extra-virgin olive oil, I think you will enjoy the fresh change of this new pesto version.
Beer-Braised Beef Shanks with Parsley Pecan PestoPrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 6 to 8IngredientsPesto- 3 cups firmly-packed flat-leaf parsley
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- ½ cup toasted pecans
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons freshly grated Mexican cotija cheese or Parmesan
Beef and Sauce- 2 large (4-pound) bone-in beef shanks
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 (12-ounce) bottles beer
- 4 cups chicken stock
- 2 whole onions, peeled and quartered
- 4 large carrots, peeled and ends removed
- 2 whole heads garlic
- 4 ribs of celery
- 6 sprigs fresh rosemary, divided
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 (750ml) bottle dry red wine
- ½ cup Port wine
- 4 tablespoons cornstarch
- 4 tablespoons cold water
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
InstructionsPesto- In the container of a blender, add the parsley, garlic, pecans, salt, and cheese. Slowly drizzle the oil and turn the blender to the lowest speed. Gradually increase the speed and continue adding oil just until the ingredients are pulverized, but before it becomes a paste. Stop the blender and stir in the cheese. Using a rubber spatula, remove the pesto to a bowl, cover and chill.
Beef and Sauce- Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
- Sprinkle the beef shanks with salt and pepper, making sure to coat all sides. In a large cast-iron dutch oven with a heavy lid, add the shanks. Pour in the beer and 2 cups of the chicken stock, and place all of the vegetables in the pot. Add 4 rosemary sprigs and the bay leaves. Place in the oven for 4 hours, and turn the meat over after 2 hours.
- Once the meat has cooked the full 4 hours, remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Move the shanks and the liquid to the refrigerator overnight.
- The next day, preheat the oven to 350ºF. Remove the meat and liquids from the refrigerator, and skim the fat from the top of the liquids and discard. Remove the vegetables and herbs. Add the red wine and additional 2 cups of chicken stock. Place the meat and liquid back into the oven for 4 hours, turning the meat once at the half-way point. Remove from the oven and check for doneness. The meat should be fork tender but still clinging to the bone. If needed, return to the oven for additional cooking.
- Remove the meat from the oven and drain off all the braising liquid into a saucepan. Wrap the meat in foil and keep warm.
- Over high heat, bring the liquids to a boil and add the Port wine. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook the liquids until it reduces by half. Taste the sauce and add salt and pepper if necessary.
- Make a slurry by combining the cornstarch and water in a small bowl. Stir until dissolved and then add to the sauce. Turn the heat to high and let it come to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and stir until the sauce thickens to coat the back of a spoon. Add butter and stir until dissolved into the sauce. Remove from the heat and keep warm until serving.
- For serving, bring the meat to the table in the pan and pour over the sauce. Garnish with the remaining rosemary sprigs and spoon over some of the pesto. Serve portions of the meat with roasted carrots and mashed potatoes along with a good bottle of red wine. Make sure to spoon the marrow from the bones onto slices of crusty French bread along with a squeeze of the roasted garlic.
NotesThe large shanks will have connective tissue running all the way up the bone. Don’t worry. As it cooks, the tissue will fall away cleanly exposing the bone. The cut of your shanks and the size of your cooking vessel will change the amount of liquid (beer + stock) that you will need. You do not want to cover the meat and boil it. You want to braise the meat with much of the surface exposed, so I urge you not to come more than halfway up the side of meat with the liquid. During cooking, check periodically to see that you still have enough liquid in the pot. I like a dark, full-bodied beer for the braise, but most any good ale will work.3.5.3217
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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- Creole Smothered Green Beans with Andouille Sausage
This Creole Smothered Green Beans is the one you’ll always see on our holiday table. It’s simply green beans straight out of a can, but it’s uncanny how these green beans–sautéed up in smoky bacon grease, smothered down in spicy andouille, and spiked with Cajun seasonings–will bring “thanks” to your Thanksgiving table.
This Creole Smothered Green Beans side dish is down-home fare often seen on a meat-and-three plate most anywhere in Acadiana. In fact, it was a Creole cook at a steamtable lunchroom in rural Evangeline Parish that spilled the beans on the list of ingredients in this casserole combination. You might think that fresh green beans would enhance this recipe, but I promise you it won’t. Using canned green beans has both taste and texture that define this dish. But there is one essential step: you must drain off all the canning liquid.
So why agonize over Thanksgiving dinner and belabor what could be a simple process? The answer: green beans out of a can. It’s easy. It’s quick. It’s inexpensive. It’s Creole Smothered Green Beans.
Creole Smothered Green Beans with Andouille SausagePrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 4Ingredients- 8 strips smoked bacon, chopped
- 1 cup loosely packed sliced andouille sausage or smoked pork sausage
- ½ cup diced yellow onion
- ¼ cup diced celery
- 2 tablespoons diced red bell pepper
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- ½ cup vegetable stock or chicken stock
- 1 (28-ounce) can cut Italian green beans, drained
- 1 teaspoon white pepper
- 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
Instructions- In a heavy skillet over medium heat, add the bacon and fry until browned and crisp. Remove the bacon pieces and drain on paper towel.
- In the same skillet, add the andouille, onion, celery, and red bell pepper to the remaining grease, and cook until the sausage browns on both sides. Sprinkle the flour over the pan and stir it into the remaining grease to make a roux. Stir the flour until it begins to turn a beige color. Add the stock, stir until it thickens, and add the green beans. Stir to combine and season with white pepper, granulated garlic, black pepper, and salt. Stir in the heavy cream and combine. Lower the heat and let simmer and thicken for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and keep warm.
- Just before serving, sprinkle the top of the green beans with the crisp bacon pieces.
NotesUse the Italian cut (flat) green beans (I like the Margaret Holmes brand). If you can't find andouille, then feel free to use a good smoked pork sausage or smoked ham. This recipe is easily scaled for a larger crowd, so feel free to double or triple the recipe. Make this one a day or two ahead of time and it will be even better as the flavors meld.3.4.3177
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.The post Creole Smothered Green Beans with Andouille Sausage appeared first on Acadiana Table.
- Cane-Brined Roast Turkey
I love turkey. It is dependable, versatile, affordable, and delicious cooked in so many great Cajun and Creole interpretations. But for many cooks, a turkey sandwich is about as close as they get to the bird all year long. And anxiety sets in as the calendar rolls around to September, October, November, and finally the big day arrives–time to panic. Relax, and let my recipe for Cane-Brined Roast Turkey come to your rescue.
Fresh or frozen? Butterball or the better buy? Fried or smoked? Stuffed or au naturel? Injected or basted? It’s enough to make any novice cook pack the family in the minivan and make a run for the nearest turkey day buffet. But we are better than that, and by reading this blog, you are an adventurous and fearless cook that is ready to take on the turkey task. Ready for Cane-Brined Roast Turkey.
Truth be told, roasting a Thanksgiving turkey takes time and talent, two things that many home cooks are in short supply. I admit: it’s hard to master the art of a dish that only comes around once a year, and I’ve seen more than one dried-out turkey disaster in my archive of holiday horror stories. But that’s in the past; let’s talk turkey.
A must for moist turkey is the brine, and I’ve discovered a Cajun recipe secret for Cane-Brined Roast Turkey. Simply put, Louisiana sugarcane molasses (I use the Steen’s brand) is the key to a Cajun brine that imparts deep dark rich flavor and ensures moist meat every time. There is something about the smokiness of molasses that works in penetrating flavor into a fat bird. I stuff my Cane-Brined Roast Turkey with flavor only (no stuffing), and fresh lemon, parsley, and sage add just the right fragrance to the meat. And I rub the bird all over with seasoned butter that builds layers of flavor and creates the ultimate crispy skin. Brined, buttered and baked in a hot oven, this Cane-Brined Roast Turkey is just a few short hours away from your dinner table.
So, get out your roasting pan and cinch up your apron; it’s time to cook up a Thanksgiving dinner to remember.
Cane-Brined Roast TurkeyPrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 10Ingredients- 2 cups table salt
- 2 cups sugarcane molasses
- 1 cup Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 1 (18-pound) whole fresh turkey
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
- 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
- 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme
- 1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
- 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1 large lemon, quartered
- 1 cup tightly packed flat-leaf parsley
- 4 stalks sage leaves
- 2 large yellow onions, halved
- 2 large carrots, chopped into 2-inch pieces
- 4 large celery ribs, chopped into 2-inch pieces
- 4 cups chicken stock
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
- 3 large romaine lettuce leaves, for garnish
- 6 stalks green onions, for garnish
- 1 bunch red grapes, for garnish
Instructions- In a stockpot just large enough to fit your turkey, fill half way with water. Add the salt, bring to a boil and continue cooking until the salt dissolves. Add the molasses and Cajun seasoning, and stir to combine. Let cool.
- Remove and reserve any turkey parts (giblets, liver, gizzard, and neck) from the turkey cavity. Add the turkey to the brining container and add ice to cool. If necessary, weight the turkey down to submerge it. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
- Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
- Remove the turkey from the brine and pat dry.
- In a mixing bowl, combine the butter, rosemary, thyme, garlic, and Cajun seasoning. Using your hands, lift the skin away and rub the seasoned butter generously underneath and on all sides of the turkey. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.
- Stuff the inside of the turkey with lemon, parsley, and sage. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine.
- Line a large roasting pan with aluminum foil and add the onions, carrots, celery, and any turkey parts (giblets, liver, gizzard, and neck) to the pan. Position a metal rack on top and pour in enough chicken stock to cover the bottom, and remember to add more chicken stock as needed during the cooking time to prevent burning. Add the turkey with the breast side up and place in the hot oven. Lower the heat to 350ºF and let cook.
- After 1 hour, check to see if the turkey is cooking properly and that there is plenty of liquid in the bottom of the pan. Total cooking time at 14 minutes per pound should be a little over 4 hours. Once the turkey reaches an internal temperature of 165ºF, remove from the oven. The meat should be done and the skin should be crispy and browned. Move the turkey to a platter, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for at least 30 minutes before carving.
- Remove all the vegetables and turkey parts, and strain the cooking liquid from the roaster into a saucepan. Add any remaining chicken stock. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil and then lower the heat to a simmer. Add a knob of butter combined with a tablespoon of flour to the pan. Stir to incorporate while it thickens. Add salt and pepper to taste.
- Garnish the platter with romaine leaves, green onion stalks, and grapes. Before carving, present the roast turkey on the center of the table. For serving, slice one side of the turkey at a time, and serve with the gravy on the side.
NotesA good rule of thumb for a salt brine is ¾ cup of salt to every gallon of water. Brined and buttered, I find it unnecessary to baste the turkey during cooking; just let it roast undisturbed. For moist turkey, inspect carefully during the final hour of roasting. When you see that the breast meat is browning too fast, cover with foil to prevent burning and overcooking.3.5.3217YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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- French Mustard-Braised Rabbit
Smothered down in a wine-infused braise of two mustards, the rich white meat of rabbit cooks low and slow in this tart and tantalizing combination of flavors. It’s Louisiana French meets European French in this French Mustard-Braised Rabbit recipe.
The people of South Louisiana have many ancestral ties to their French cultural roots–cooking included. For instance, a delicate roux made by a trained saucier in the kitchen of a Michelin-starred French restaurant takes the same basic technique as a Cajun recipe for one made by a skilled Cajun cook on a home stovetop. Although the bayou version invariably dives deeper and darker in search of flavor, the method is identical. The same can be said of mustard, and this recipe for mustard-braised rabbit celebrates the culinary linkage, yet differences in taste of the two cultures. It is a recipe I discovered some years ago.
In my long career, I’ve had the opportunity to represent some very interesting clients–none more so than the ABC of France tourism cooperative. The Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne regions of Eastern France searched the United States for an ad agency to represent them in building an American travel market and they selected mine because of our cultural tourism focus. Marketing the culturally rich region was a dream assignment and for over six years we developed communication programs to highlight the historical, culinary and wine-producing significance of this colorful European travel destination.
It was a journey of discovery. Touring this vast area east of Paris, I found out just how culturally diverse France can be. From the rolling hills of the vineyards to the mountains of Alsace, the culinary differences are dramatic. While I enjoyed the German influence of Alsatian cuisine, I must admit that the area around Dijon in the Burgundy region boasts more earthy, intensely rich flavors that are closer to my home in South Louisiana. The mustard-growing region anchored by the famous Maille mustard operation is responsible for the endless interpretations of dishes featuring that ingredient.
Cooking with rabbit is a common ingredient of both rural Louisiana and French cultures. And it was the pungent punch of a mustard-braised rabbit I had in a French farmhouse that helped me connect the two cuisines. It was a grand and gratifying combination of flavors. The rich white meat of the rabbit was cloaked in a velvety sauce of peppery mustard that created perfect symmetry of tastes.
As I set out to recreate that dish, it gradually became clearer how much the culture of my Acadiana has in common with the rural regions of France. Although our tastes may have evolved in different directions, our connections to farmers and artisans are a key to the cultural traditions that we both value. In Louisiana, we are partial to grainy Creole mustard as a spice-infused base for many of our Cajun recipes, and in Burgundy it is the sweeter and smoother Dijon-style mustard that is preferred. To balance this full-flavored Mustard-Braised Rabbit dish, I use both.
French Mustard-Braised RabbitPrep timeCook timeTotal timeThe mustard-spiked cream of this velvety sauce is magically sweet in this rustic farmhouse dish.Recipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 4Ingredients- 3 strips smoked bacon, chopped
- 1 cup diced yellow onion
- 1 cup diced celery
- ½ cup diced green bell pepper
- 2 cups fresh mushrooms, cleaned
- 1 large carrot, peeled and diced
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 cup chopped fresh kale
- 1 whole rabbit, cut into pieces
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup canola oil
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons Louisiana Creole mustard, such as Zatarain's
- 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard, such as Maille Dijon Originale
- 2 cups chicken stock, divided
- 1 cup heavy whipping cream
Instructions- In a large cast-iron skillet with heavy lid on medium-high heat, add the bacon. Cook until the bacon is crispy and remove to a paper towel and drain.
- In the same pan on medium heat, add the onions, celery, bell pepper, and mushrooms to the remaining bacon grease. Sauté the ingredients just until the onions turn translucent and then add the carrots and garlic along with the parsley, rosemary, and kale. Stir all the vegetables together for 2 minutes and then remove to a platter.
- Place the rabbit pieces on a platter and pat dry with paper towel. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge the pieces lightly in flour and place on a platter.
- In the same pan on medium heat, add the oil. Once the oil is hot, add the rabbit pieces. Brown the rabbit on both sides.
- Pour off any remaining oil from the pan and add the sautéed vegetables and the bacon pieces back to the pan with the rabbit. On medium heat, add the wine and deglaze the pan. Cook until the wine reduces by half. Add both mustards and stir until combined. Add 1 cup of chicken stock. Lower the heat to a simmer, place the cover on the pan and let cook for 20 minutes.
- Uncover, add the cream and stir to combine. Cover and let simmer for 10 minutes. Stir to make sure the sauce is thickening, but not sticking on the bottom of the pan. Add more chicken stock to thin it out, if needed. Cover and simmer for another 10 minutes until the rabbit is tender. Taste the sauce and add salt and pepper as needed. Cover the pan and keep warm.
- For serving, present the pan in the center of the table in traditional farmhouse style. Serve with steamed rice or mashed potatoes along with crusty French bread, and of course, a bottle of French Burgundy wine.
NotesI use a combination of mushrooms in this dish – Chanterelles and portobellos – but any type will be fine. Domestic rabbit is a delicate white meat with no gamey taste and is especially good for the braising of this dish. Find whole, farm-raised rabbit if you can. Better yet, go to a breeder and buy your rabbit direct insuring the freshness and naturalness of the meat, plus it’s always a bonus to meet the farming family that you are helping.3.2.2708
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- Guinea Gumbo
From the pages of my latest cookbook Fresh From Louisiana: The Soul of Cajun and Creole Home Cooking, this Guinea Gumbo recipe is an old-school Cajun classic. Steeped in tradition and infused with rich gumbo flavors, every spoonful defines the art of Cajun cooking.
I remember it like it was yesterday: the day, over 30 years ago, that I first tasted a guinea gumbo and was immediately initiated into the colorful world of Cajun cooking. That one deep dark bowlful taught me volumes about a cuisine that has been heralded by many and misunderstood by many more. Our Cajun recipe books can’t tell the whole story about our people, places, and history that go into a culture so aligned with its culinary past. It must be tasted and explored with wide-eyed curiosity.
Tradition abounds with this recipe, and as is the case with many Cajun classics, the roux is all-important. Cajun cooks know that the darker the roux, the tastier the dish. And achieving that ultra-dark–the color of chocolate–roux takes time and talent. We’ve made that part of this recipe easier with our one-of-a-kind, jarred roux product Rox’s Roux. Made to my wife Roxanne’s precise formula, it is the deepest, darkest, richest roux on the market. A 16-ounce jar is all you need to make this recipe or many more Cajun classics. It’s both a time-saver and a small investment to ensure the quality of your dish. And my latest cookbook is available online at Amazon or you can purchase an autographed copy at a 15% discount on this website at our Acadiana Table STORE. It’s a great holiday gift for family and friends, and we can ship anywhere in the United States.
So what does guinea hen taste like? Guineafowl comes from Africa and arrived in Acadiana sometime after the Cajuns landed in the late 1700s. The taste of guinea hens has more in common with wild game birds like pheasant than domestic poultry. It is a sublimely rich and gamey version of chicken. Dark and delicious–it is what I imagine a Bresse chicken served in the finest French kitchen of a three-star Michelin restaurant would taste like. But, guinea hen are leaner and a bit drier than chicken, so the cooking method almost always includes layers of flavor and a long, slow braise. Perfect for a guinea gumbo.
I drive an hour to Mowata to buy my guinea hen from Bubba. That’s right, the small farming community of Mowata, Louisiana in the prairie region of Acadia Parish is the proverbial one-horse town (actually it is not even an incorporated town), but to miss it would be to miss one of the hardest working Cajuns in all of Acadiana–Bubba Frey. Bubba is always busy farming his rice field, smoking his specialty pork sausage, looking after his poultry farm, running his crawfish traps or tending to business in his storefront along the Crowley Eunice Highway.
The Mowata Store with its polished hardwood floors and pristine meat cases is part grocery and smokehouse as well as a gathering place for local farmers. Bubba farms guineas and usually has a hen or two butchered and ready to go in his meat case, but I would make a phone call before the trip.
The technique for guinea gumbo versus most other Cajun recipes for gumbo is about the same with two exceptions. Guinea hens have 50% less fat than chicken so I’m browning the pieces in bacon fat to infuse flavor. And guinea hen is inherently tough, so the cooking time is much longer than a regular chicken gumbo. The rest is virtually the same–holy trinity, dark roux and a potent chicken stock. Oh, and some of my friends Kermit and Nita Lejeune’s garlic sausage from their smokehouse in Eunice, just down the road from Bubba’s place.
Try my guinea gumbo and, like me, you will immediately understand the magic and mystique of Cajun and Creole cooking.
Guinea GumboPrep timeCook timeTotal timeThis is a deeper, darker gumbo with an exceptional flavor that only guinea hen can deliver.Recipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 4 to 6Ingredients- 6 strips smoked bacon, chopped
- 1 whole guinea hen, cut into pieces
- 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 2 cups diced yellow onions
- 2 cups diced green bell pepper
- 2 cups diced celery
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic
- ½ cup chopped parsley
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 2 bay leaves
- 12 cups dark chicken stock, plus more if needed
- 1 cup dark roux, such as Rox's Roux or make your own from scratch (see recipe)
- 3 links garlic smoked pork sausage
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Dash of hot sauce
- 8 cups cooked Louisiana long-grain white rice, such as Supreme
- 1 cup diced green onion tops
- Filé powder, for serving
- Mustard potato salad, for serving
Instructions- In a large cast-iron pot with a heavy lid over medium-high heat, add the bacon and cook until fully rendered. Remove the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat and reserve the rest.
- Lightly sprinkle the guinea hen pieces with Cajun seasoning and place into the hot fat. Brown on all sides and remove to a platter.
- In the same pot over medium-high heat, add more bacon grease to the pot, if needed. Add the onions, bell pepper, and celery and cook until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, parsley, cayenne, and bay leaves. Add the guinea hen to the pot and pour over the stock. Bring the pot to a simmer and add the roux. Place the whole sausage links along with the bacon pieces into the pot and immerse in the stock. Cover and let cook on simmer for 1 hour.
- Uncover and stir the pot. Using a ladle, skim the surface of any excess oil and discard. If too thick, add more stock. If too thin, add more roux. Add salt and pepper to taste along with a dash of hot sauce. Cover and cook on low for 1 hour longer.
- Skim the surface of excess oil and discard. At this point, you can leave the guinea hen on the bone or debone by removing the bones and skin from each of the pieces, and adding the meat back to the pot. Remove the sausage links, slice into bite-sized pieces and return to the pot. Cover and cook for another 30 minutes.
- For serving, ladle the gumbo over white rice and serve with a sprinkle of diced green onion tops and filé powder on the side. Also, a Cajun tradition is to add a scoop of potato salad on the edge of the bowl to eat along with the gumbo. Give it a try.
NotesIf you don't want to make your own roux from scratch; buy Rox's Roux from our STORE on our website. Unlike thinner gumbos, a guinea gumbo has a thicker (almost stew-like) consistency, so adjust your stock and roux ratio according to your taste. If you have trouble finding guinea hen, you can source the product online at D'Artagnan. Substituting guinea hen with a stewing hen or rooster is acceptable, but the flavors will be much different. I like to place the sausage links whole into the gumbo and let them plump up. They can be sliced later and added back to the pot for the final cooking. I highly recommend making dark chicken stock from scratch, and it's easy when you follow my recipe.3.5.3217YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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- Crawfish and Pumpkin Bisque
As Halloween and Thanksgiving approach, this hearty Crawfish and Pumpkin Bisque defines the holiday season in Acadiana for me and represents the best of rural farm-to-table sourcing. Combining the sweet tail meat of crawfish and fresh seasonal corn cut from the cob, it is certainly a winning combination. But, when you introduce pumpkin along with curry powder and cane molasses, it takes on an even more pronounced flavor. Sweet, spicy, and warming on a cool and crisp Fall day.
Years ago, Jeremy Langlois, head chef at Latil’s Landing Restaurant at Houmas House Plantation, created a spectacular recipe that has become one of my favorite seasonal offerings – Bisque of Curried Pumpkin, Crawfish and Corn.
When Chef Jeremy set out to make this dish he gave it a West Indies flair, and I presume this soup would be right at home in a Caribbean kitchen. He is perfectly aligned in adapting this dish to our Creole taste buds with the African-influenced island spices we have embraced here in South Louisiana. This great dish is just one reason Chef Jeremy was invited to cook at the James Beard House.
With my recipe for Crawfish and Pumpkin Bisque, I have adapted this dish with a few tweaks here and there. For instance, I’ve replaced syrup with dark sugarcane molasses for a richer taste more associated with Cajun and Creole cooking. I urge you to make more of this than you will need since it will go fast. In fact, I have scaled the original recipe up, doubling the amount of crawfish.
As a starter, I like to put this Crawfish and Pumpkin Bisque out hours before dinner is served with cup portions available when guests arrive. The comforting smiles on the faces of your friends and family will signal the season is finally here.
Crawfish and Pumpkin BisquePrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: Adapted from Chef Jeremy LangloisServes: 8Ingredients- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 cups diced onions
- 1 cup diced green bell pepper
- 1 cup diced red bell pepper
- 1 cup diced celery
- 1⁄2 cup minced garlic
- 1 cup white all-purpose flour
- 1 cup sugarcane molasses, such as Steen’s
- ¼ cup yellow curry powder, plus more if needed
- 1 tablespoon turmeric
- 3 quarts crawfish or shrimp stock, plus more if needed
- 1 (14 ounce) can of unsweetened pumpkin pulp
- 3 cups fresh yellow corn kernels
- 2 pounds peeled Louisiana crawfish tails
- 1½ cups heavy whipping cream
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions- In a large pot over medium-high heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the onions, green and red bell pepper, and celery. Cook just until translucent and then add the garlic. Lower the heat to medium and add the flour and stir the mixture for 5 minutes as you cook the flour taste out and form a blond roux.
- Stir in the molasses and curry powder as well as the turmeric to achieve the golden yellow color of this dish. Add the crawfish stock, pumpkin and the corn. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Continue cooking for 15 minutes.
- Add the Louisiana crawfish tails and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Add the heavy whipping cream and stir to combine. Taste the bisque and season with salt and pepper. Add more curry if needed to achieve the pronounced flavor you desire.
- At this point, you can turn off the heat and hold for serving later. Just before serving bring it back to a simmer, stir the bisque and check for thickness. If it is too thick then add a little more of the stock to thin it to your desired consistency. Serve with crusty French bread.
NotesI suggest you make a stock from crawfish shells, but you can certainly use shrimp shells, dried shrimp or fish bones, or as a last resort, use a store-bought seafood stock. Don’t be afraid to improvise with this dish – perhaps shrimp or even a white flaky fish would be an option. Just be sure the dominant flavors of seafood and curry along with the balance of sweetness and spiciness are in sync.3.5.3217YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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- Butternut And Shrimp Pasta
Autumn in Acadiana is when fresh squash, pumpkin, and gourds of all kind begin showing up at the local farmers markets. It always puts me in the mood for a delicious recipe featuring those flavors, and with this Butternut And Shrimp Pasta dish, I can’t think of a better way to usher in the fall season.
This mouthwatering recipe is at the intersection of taste and texture. The sweetness of creamy butternut squash is counterpunched with Cajun spice in this smooth, satisfying pasta dish. Just add jumbo Gulf shrimp, crunchy farm-to-table vegetables, and a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and we just created a new Cajun classic–Butternut And Shrimp Pasta. Oh, and did I mention how easy it is?
While I often cook with butternut squash, I am making this recipe even easier with a packaged butternut squash soup that I recently discovered. The Imagine brand of organic cream-based soups is on most supermarket shelves these days. These boxed soups are as tasty as they are convenient, and I use them often in recipes. This particular version—butternut squash—has a fall spice profile that infuses the intensity of the squash with a hint of cinnamon in one creamy, pourable sauce. I smooth it all out with heavy cream and a bit of pasta water; it works deliciously as a base for my Butternut And Shrimp Pasta.
With this recipe, I use the flat, broad pappardelle noodle with its soft, eggy interior that seems to soak up the flavors of this dish like a sponge. The 1-inch wide noodles cloaked in the velvety sauce spin a silky web of taste and texture inside the bowl. Each bite is an explosion of flavor. Bring a pot of this Butternut And Shrimp Pasta to your table and watch your family sing your praises as they lap up every bit of sauce in their bowl. But, shhhh; don’t tell them how easy it was.
Butternut And Shrimp PastaPrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George Graham - AcadianaTable.comServes: 4Ingredients- 1 bunch (approximately 10 spears) asparagus, chopped into large pieces
- 1 pound pappardelle pasta
- 2 tablespoons salt
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 yellow onion
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1 cup chopped carrot
- 1 cup chopped sweet pepper
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 4 cups butternut squash soup, such as Imagine® Organic Creamy Butternut Squash Soup
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 1 cup diced green onion tops
- 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 pound jumbo (16/20 count) shrimp, shells removed, tails left on
- 4 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Instructions- In a large pot filled halfway with water over high heat, add salt and bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook until just blanched but still crunchy, about 1 minute. Remove the asparagus and add to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and preserve the color. Add the pasta noodles and cook until al dente. Drain the noodles reserving 1 cup of the pasta water for later use.
- In a large pot over medium-high heat, add the olive oil along with the onion, celery, carrot, and pepper. Saute until the onion turns translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Add the butternut squash soup and cream. When it begins to bubble, lower the heat to simmer and let it cook as the mixture reduces and thickens.
- Add the Cajun seasoning along with the green onion and parsley. Taste the mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add enough pasta to the sauce to accommodate the number of guests you are serving (Note: Save any leftover pasta to add back to the sauce later.) Turn off the heat and let the pasta soak in the hot sauce.
- For serving, heat the pot containing the pasta and sauce and add the shrimp and the asparagus. Let cook until the shrimp turn pink and cook through, about 5 minutes. If the sauce becomes too thick, add some of the reserved pasta water to thin it out to sauce consistency (thick enough to coat the back of a spoon). Serve in bowls and garnish with a sprig of parsley.
NotesPre-cooking the asparagus with a quick blanching and holding in ice-water preserves its color and crunch. I leave the tails on the shrimp for presentation, but feel free to remove them. I urge you to source wild-caught Gulf shrimp from the waters off the Louisiana coast for best quality. I like the jumbo size shrimp in this, but it will work just as well with smaller (26/35 count) shrimp. The sweet peppers I use are the colorful mini-peppers in the bags sold in most supermarkets these days; traditional bell pepper will work just as well. My recipe holds back on the heat with only a little Cajun seasoning, so feel free to jack up the spice with your favorite hot sauce. The packaged soup makes this easy, and I see the Imagine brand soups in many supermarkets, or you can order them online. That said, feel free to make your butternut puree from cubes of squash simmered in heavy cream with a dash of cinnamon and blended.3.5.3217YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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- Pork Mignons with Pears
Medallions of pork brined in pear nectar and wrapped in smoky bacon are just the start of this showstopper of a dish. Sauce it with fresh red pears laced with a punch of sage, and you have a recipe to remember.
You can find pork tenderloin in most supermarkets, and this convenient item is the foundation of many great recipes like this one. Cutting them down into “mignons” appeals to the gourmand in me, but it is also a practical way to ensure even cooking and portion control.
One essential of this dish is to brine the pork in fruit juice. Fruit and pork are a natural combination, and the pear nectar works wonders in bringing flavor and moistness to the meat. And with a basket of fresh red pears sitting on my counter, I’m adding a second layer of fruity flavor to the sauce reduction. Oh, so good!
Pork Mignons with PearsPrep timeCook timeTotal timeRecipe by: George GrahamServes: 4Ingredients- 2 whole pork tenderloins
- 2 cups pear nectar
- 1 tablespoon garlic powder
- 1 tablespoon onion powder
- 1 tablespoon white pepper
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 8 strips smoked bacon
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped yellow onion
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 6 whole garlic cloves
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 2 unpeeled red pears, quartered and cored
- Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions- Remove the tenderloins from the package, and with a sharp knife, cut into 8 pieces approximately 2 ½ inches long. Place in a zip-lock bag and pour in the pear nectar. Rotate the bag to cover and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.
- In a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat, add the bacon strips. Cook the bacon halfway until some of the fat has rendered. Remove to a platter and let cool.
- Remove the bag of pork and pour the pear nectar from the bag into a container; save for later use. With paper towels, pat the meat dry. Lightly sprinkle all sides with garlic powder, onion powder, white pepper, and salt. Wrap each meat portion with bacon and skewer with a toothpick.
- In the same skillet on medium-high heat, add the pork pieces bacon-side down. Turn the pork and brown on all sides until the bacon is crisp and the meat is about halfway cooked, about 15 minutes.
- Add the onion and garlic and sauté until the onion turns translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup of the reserved pear nectar along with the chicken stock and deglaze the pan. Add the sage. Lower the heat to a simmer and cover. Let cook until the pork is fully cooked and has reached a minimum internal temperature of 165ºF, about 30 minutes. Remove the meat to a serving platter and keep warm.
- Increase the heat to medium-high until the sauce reaches a boil. Stir the cornstarch with an equal amount of cold water; add to the sauce and whisk to prevent lumps. Lower the heat to a simmer and add the pears. Stir until the pears soften and the sauce thickens to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- Pour the sauce over the pork mignons and serve immediately.
NotesCooking time does not include brining. Don’t confuse pork tenderloin with pork loin; the tenderloins are smaller with less fat and muscle. I love the flavor of pear in this recipe, but apple will work as well. To cook crisp, I use regular-cut bacon, not thick-cut. Be careful not to overcook the pears; they should be softened but still hold together. If they sauce should become too thick, thin it with water to your desired consistency.3.5.3217YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this cooking story and recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless…and free. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new cooking stories and recipes are added. Thanks, George.
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